Clothing
A note on the Victorian Era. The period is defined by the rule of Queen Victoria, which lasted from June 1837 to January 1901. Technology, fashions and culture in general changed a great deal in that period. Victorian Dreadful is set in 1890
Clothing in the Victorian era was, in many ways, much more complex then our fashions and the typical medieval based Fantasy society.
This especially so for women.
Men’s Clothing
As compared to the women’s clothing, male dressing style did not undergo any radical change. Men’s costumes were expected to be formal, sober and elegant during the work hours and otherwise.
During the Victorian era, male clothing included coats, vests and hats except when they were doing hard labor jobs. Any costume less then this was considered unsuitable. It was essential for a man to have a waistcoat or vest. These vests could be bright colors or dark shades and were used as an accessory to change the tone of the suit.
There was also a variation in the Day coats worn by men. These coats had changed into long frock coats, mostly in black color. Waistcoats or vests made from wool were commonly used for day wear or as an office wear.
The basic feature of the Victorian male clothing was clean and basic lines, use of dark color and a detailed work of the costume. Early in the century men also wore corsets but with time the cinching of waist was replaced by easy breathing loose jackets.
The male clothing in the early years of the Victorian era was a bit subtle but kind of colorful. For evening occasions they generally chose to wear colors like brown, dark green, blue, violet and black. The use of Braid trimming with customary lace began in 1850s.
Men’s trousers initially had legs covering in tight fitting cloth but, the fashion gradually changed to a loose tubular style. Straight slacks, with a crease in front & back were commonly seen by the end of the century.
Hats were considered as an integral part of the men’s clothes. There were a variety of hats to suit different occasions. Every man wore an accessory that suited their clothes. Men wore ties, pocket watches and a walking stick and adding to the outfit were gloves.
It can be observed that during the Victorian reign, men found having facial hair of all sizes as a style statement. Grooming of facial hair was a trait of Victorian men. The period prior to the Victorian era is called the Regency period where it was a fashion among men to have a clean shaven face. However, the Victorian men believed in the exact opposite of it.
Women’s Clothing
Dresses
By the 1880s, the soft curve bustle dresses of the early 1870s were replaced with a new distinct silhouette featuring a severely tailored figure from the front and added draperies to the back. The train had disappeared and a bustle or tournure with a fitted gored skirt produced a profile straight in the front, hugging the hips, and exploding into a back fullness that was gathered or pleated.
By the mid-1880s, the bustle was frequently built into the foundation of the skirt itself. It was amplified in size until 1887, then began immediately to shrink and by 1889 had disappeared altogether.
Victorian Underwear
Men
The Victorian Period ran from 1837 to 1901. And while fashions changed, what people wore under them remained pretty much the same. For men it consisted mainly of drawers, both long and short variety made of calico, cotton, linen and different weights of worsted and china silk.
Under vests made of merino or flannel were worn for extra warmth and were probably the forerunners of tee shirt. Combinations or ‘Union Suits’ were a one piece garment worn by both sexes.
Women
Though fashion changed from Early Victorian to Late Victorian, the basic women’s undergarments were the chemise, drawers, corsets, and layers of petticoats which remained more or less the same. New additions included the crinolines, bustles, corset covers, and combinations.
Early Victorian was extremely plain, simple and mostly made from white linen before cotton grew as the next best alternative and which replaced linen in the last few years of the century. Improvements in fabric and milling brought about the use of finer and lighter fabrics, cotton lawn, batiste, silks…
A chemise or a shift was voluminous and helped in protecting the dress and the corset from the skin. The chemise was mostly made of white linen plain, had short sleeves and continued up to the knee. By the end of the century, however, chemise had become sleeveless garment with narrow shoulders with a round, U-shaped or heart shaped neckline to go with.
A dual role was played by Petticoats; as an under clothing as well as like a structural garment. As an undergarment, it provided the much-needed warmth and modesty. Additionally, it also gave shape to the dress. Petticoats came to be regarded as the ultimate symbol of femininity by the late Victorian period.
From the 1820’s drawers were made of cotton lawn fabric, or for extra warmth, flannel. They were loose and made of two leg sections, ‘pantalettes,’ held together with a tie at the waist. They were baggy, which accommodated the split through the crotch, so that even with the opening, the bagginess gave some modesty. Generally some lace or frill was found on the bottom of each leg. From about 1820 drawers began to be called knickers or ‘knickerbockers’ and varieties were used for sport activities. The term Drawers, Knickers, knickerbockers are synonymous.
By the 1860’s knickers were made as one piece garments. Frills and ruffles were frequent and colors, such as scarlet red and detachable linings were common. In general the width of the knicker leg was about 20 inches around the knee with a 10 inch lace frill. The knickers were easily accommodated under the wide petticoats and equally full wide skirts of the 1890s era.
Thanks to Queen Victoria, who set feminine fashion for the duration of her reign, knickers were the standard. By 1900 only the poorest women went without knickers.
Around 1877 a new fashion began to emerge. Called a ‘combination’ it was an all in one ‘suit’ that eliminated the need for a chemis. Some versions of combinations were frillier and prettier garments that merged into lingerie, making them more exotic in their appearance.
Corsets
The women of the Victorian period were expected to be married and take care of her husband and children. Clothing formed an essential part of the Victorian society. A woman of upper-class had servants to do all the chores while the women of lower classes were required to do the work. Tightly laced corsets closely-fitted clothes meant that the woman belongs to the upper-class. On the other hand, bulges and rolls on the body indicated that the woman is from lower-class.
There was a variety in types of corsets that were available. With the Victorian women venturing into male dominated sports activities, different corsets were introduced to suit the sportswear. Abdominal corsets were available for pregnant women.
The corset was an important undergarment which was designed in such a manner so as to improve the female figure. Corsets laced up the center-back of the woman to give it the right amount of tightness required. This was also known as tight-lacing. It is essential to note that corsets were always worn over a cotton chemise and did not directly touch the skin.
Corsets were worn by women, young girls and children. Young girls and children wore corsets as their clothes were similar to the type of clothes worn by the adults in the family. Corsets were worn by young girls to enable them to get the right posture.
There was a variety in types of corsets that were available. With the Victorian women venturing into male dominated sports activities, different corsets were introduced to suit the sportswear. Abdominal corsets were available for pregnant women.
Corsets were useful for giving the torso a proper shape by narrowing the waist and supporting the breasts. In the 19th century, it was a fashion to have an hour-glass figure which was possible after reducing the waistline by using a corset.
Men
Your Upper Working Class generally owned two sets of clothing, if he was doing well, three. One or two for work and ordinary wear. Details varies with job. A shop clerk does not need special work gloves, boots or an outer coat. A mason does.
And one set for dress outfit, special occasions, church, etc
The quality, trimming, condition and style will reflect middle class or lower class
Typical Middle Class Clerk Wardrobe
| Item | £/S/d |
| 1 overcoat | 1/15/0 |
| 1 umbrella | -/7/6 |
| 1 hat, work/day to day | -/2/6 |
| 1 silk hat, Sunday Best | -/7/6 |
| 1 week-day work suit with waistcoat | 2/0/0 |
| 1 Sunday suit with waistcoat | 2/10/0 |
| 1 pair socks | -/1/10 |
| 1 pair boots | -/10/6 |
| 1 under vest | -/2/6 |
| 1 pair drawers | -/3/2 |
| OR 1 Combination (Union Suit) | -/7/8 |
| 1 flannel shirt | -/3/0 |
| 1 cotton shirt | -/2/6 |
| 2 collar | -/1/- |
| 2 pair cuffs | -/1/4 |
| collar, buttons | -/0/1 |
| 1 pair braces (suspenders) | -/2/2 |
| 1 tie, bow or other type | -/3/0 |
8/14/3 |
This is a MINIMUM wardrobe. Most men owned 6 pairs of cuffs and collars and 2 or 3 sets of undergarments/combinations and at least 2 pairs of socks.
Typical Lower Working Class Tradesman Wardrobe
| Item | £/S/d |
| 1 overcoat | 1/15/0 |
| 1 hat, work/day to day | -/2/6 |
| 1 week-day work suit with waistcoat | 2/0/0 |
| 1 Sunday suit with waistcoat | 2/10/0 |
| 1 pair socks | -/1/10 |
| 1 pair boots | -/10/6 |
| 1 Combination (Union Suit) | -/7/8 |
| 1 flannel shirt | -/3/0 |
| 2 collar | -/1/- |
| 2 pair cuffs | -/1/4 |
| collar, buttons | -/0/1 |
| 1 pair braces (suspenders) | -/2/2 |
| 1 tie, bow or other type | -/3/0 |
5/3/3 |
Ordinary
Trousers
Shirt
Waistcoat(vest)
Day Coat
Hat
Shoes
Collars & Cuffs
Braces
gloves, work (if needed)
Outer Coat, work grade (if needed)
Dress
Trousers
Shirt
Waistcoat(vest)
Day Coat
Hat
Shoes
Collars & Cuffs
gloves
Over Coat
Middle, Upper Middle Class Woman
| Item | £/S/d |
| Apron, Gingham | 1/0 |
| Brooch and Lace Pin, gold | 1/6 |
| Cape, Spring, wool, w/ 8” Parisian collar | 14/5 |
| Chemise, cotton, fine Valencienner lace front | 3/11 |
| Corset, French style | 3/6 |
| Corset Cover, white muslin | 1/5 |
| Crinoline, cage crinoline, w/ steel hoop boning | 1/5 |
| Drawers, Muslin, with Hamburg lace edging | 2/3 |
| Evening Gown | 5/15/0+ |
| Gloves, kid, pearl buttons | 4/2 |
| Hair Pin, Tortoiseshell | 6/2 |
| Handbag, also called a “Shopping Bag” | 4/2 |
| Handkerchief, fine lace | 7/9 – 200/0 |
| Hat, trimmed with ribbons and bunches of silk flowers | 5/5 |
| Hose, Cotton, solid-colored | 0/5 |
| Hose, Silk, lace front, 1 pair | 5/4 |
| Hose, Cashmere, 1 pair | 2/1 |
| Jacket, Spring, diagonal wool Cheviot | 17/7 |
| Locket, gold, engraved; holds 2 pictures | 14/5 |
| Newport Suit; jacket, skirt | 37/2 |
| Nightgown, Cotton, herringbone trim, embroidered ruffled collar | 5/10 |
| Overboots, Rubber, button-up | 1/5 |
| Shawl, Cashmere | 8/3 |
| Shirtwaist, black sateen | 3/1 |
| Shoes, “Common Sense” Oxfords | 5/2 |
| Shoes, Extra-high cut button-up boots | 15/6 |
| Shoes, Razor-toed boots, lace up | 10/4 |
| Skirt, fine wool serge, organ pipe pleats | 16/6 |
| Tea Gown, all wool Henrietta | 37/2 |
| Umbrella, black silk, ebony crook handle | 5/2 |
| Underwear; Cotton Union Suit | 2/1 |
| Veil, fine lace | 15/0 – 83/0 |
| Wrapper, ready-made, indigo cotton print to cotton-warp cashmere | 3/1 – 10/4 |
The wrapper was a simple housedress or daytime dress.
Lower Working Class Woman
| Item | £/S/d |
| Apron, Gingham | 1/0 |
| Cape, Spring, wool | 9/5 |
| Chemise, cotton, | 2/3 |
| Drawers, Muslin, with Hamburg lace edging | 2/3 |
| Hair Pin | 3/1 |
| Handbag, also called a “Shopping Bag” | 4/2 |
| Handkerchief | 3/5 |
| Hat, untrimmed, straw | 1/6 |
| Hose, Cotton, solid-colored | 0/5 |
| Jacket, Spring, wool | 17/7 |
| Nightgown, Cotton, herringbone trim, embroidered ruffled collar | 5/10 |
| Overboots, Rubber, button-up | 1/5 |
| Shawl, Wool | 4/3 |
| Shirtwaist, black sateen | 3/1 |
| Shoes, “Common Sense” Oxfords | 5/2 |
| Skirt, wool serge | 12/6 |
| Umbrella, black silk, ebony crook handle | 5/2 |
| Underwear; Wool Union Suit | 4/1 |
| Wrapper, ready-made, indigo cotton print | 3/1 |
The wrapper was a simple housedress or daytime dress.